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Our "Be Active Blog" gives our content managers the freedom to post anything regarding their daily lives, much like a journal, or they may post any entry that might be of interest to others on their blog topic. This gives members of the site the opportunity to share in these experiences by posting comments to these entries. Please note that in order to post to blog entries, you have to be a registered member of the site.

 
 A Home for Wildlife in Your Backyard
 
by Eve Smith and Karen Cole, Urban Wildlife Biologist
Source: Arkansas Game and Fish Commission

Go look out the window for a moment. What do you see in your backyard? If it's like most Arkansans', it's probably a well-manicured lawn landscaped with an oak or hickory and a few scattered shrubs. Maybe some cardinals or chickadees are enjoying a snack at the feeder. Now imagine this: hummingbirds skipping from flower to flower, sipping nectar from a bright orange trumpet creeper; a downy woodpecker drumming in the thick branches of a black gum; squirrels darting up and down the oak tree collecting acorns for winter; winter colors enhanced by red, green, and white as mockingbird devours the crimson berries on a evergreen shrub. And it's all happening in your backyard.

With a little time and money, this can be more than just a dream. Whether you have a three-acre yard in the country or a windowsill outside a city apartment, it can become a haven for wildlife. The kind and number of animals attracted depends on the size of the yard, the plants chosen and their placement. All animals, from tree frogs to deer require food, water, and cover. A backyard wildlife manager's goal is to provide these habitat requirements by creating a natural system enabling wildlife to care for itself.

First, inventory your yard and the benefits it provides wildlife. Are there berry and nut producing trees and shrubs? Is there a water supply? Does the yard have shrubs with overhanging branches, evergreens, briars or thickets where wildlife can find shelter?

Second, decide what types of wildlife you hope to attract and what habitat requirements must be provided for them. While it's doubtful that wild turkeys will be attracted if you live in the city, there are many songbirds, small mammals, reptiles, and amphibians that can be attracted. Even apartment window boxes can be planted with flowers attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Backyard wildlife managers with heavily wooded yards probably won't attract nesting bluebirds, meadowlarks or birds common to grasslands, yet their yards can be full of creatures that people in open areas can't hope to attract.

After reviewing your backyard habitat and deciding what types of wildlife you want, its time to develop a backyard wildlife management plan. Mapping your yard and planning plantings, helps develop a yard that maximizes benefits to both you and the wildlife.

Sketch the yard on paper showing existing trees and shrubs, power lines, patios and buildings. Then, after reviewing the lists of plants beneficial to the desired wildlife (these lists are available from the Commission's Urban Wildlife Section), add these to the backyard map. Keep in mind the mature height of the plantings. Don't plant tall trees where they interfere with power lines. And don't place berry-producing trees and shrubs next to patios or driveways where messy fruit poses a problem.

Trees can benefit you as well as wildlife. Evergreens, like cedar and pine trees, planted north of the house can decrease heating bills by protecting your home from cold winter winds. Tall shade trees planted along the west side of the house will filter out the hot afternoon sun and decrease summer cooling costs.

Leave enough open space to provide viewing areas. These areas also serve as open space for wildlife. Many animals require open areas for sunning and hunting insects. Larger trees should be planted in back, with smaller trees, shrubs and flowers layered progressively in the front. Vary the heights of plantings for a visually pleasing effect.

The following requirements must be provided for wildlife.

Food

Each animal has its own food preferences, and these change seasonally. Providing an abundance and variety of wildlife foods year-round will attract and support many wild creatures.

Fruits, nuts, and seeds are relished by wildlife and can be easily provided. Nut and berry producing trees and shrubs provide the foundation for most backyard wildlife manager's plans. Fruits of different trees and shrubs remain on plants for varying lengths of time. Blackberries and dogwood fruit are eaten soon after ripening. However, holly and viburnum berries are more persistent and remain on the plant well into winter when other fruits are gone. The backyard wildlife area should contain shrubs with both early and persistent fruits to provide wildlife food through late winter.

Hummingbirds and butterflies feed on flower nectar. Plant a butterfly and hummingbird flower garden (containing such flowers as allysum, butterfly weed, scarlet sage and petunias) in an open area with easy observation and ample sunlight. Apartment dwellers can turn window boxes and patios into mini wildlife areas for colorful butterflies and hummingbirds by planting nectar-producing flowers.

Many backyard animals are predators. In fact, most birds, including hummingbirds, feed on insects as well as seeds and berries. Backyard wildlife managers can allow these natural "pest controllers" to take care of insect problems, reducing the need for chemical insecticides. Insects are necessary to the backyard wildlife area. They're important high-protein food for feeding nestlings and the only food source for some animals. If insecticides must be used, use pyrethrum-based sprays. They aren't harmful to birds or mammals.

One of the most common ways to attract backyard wildlife is through feeding. Bird feeders supplement seasonal food lapses and are especially helpful to wildlife in late winter and early spring when natural food supplies are lowest. In spring and summer, hummingbird feeders filled with sugar water bring these tiny birds right up to your window. Keep in mind, however, that a natural food supply is more likely to make wildlife a permanent resident of your yard than feeding stations.

Cover

Cover is as essential to wildlife survival as food. It provides protection from predators and bad weather, and acts as a safe home base for resting and raising young. Locate cover within 10-15 feet of food and water.

Different animals have different shelter and nesting cover requirements. Dense shrubs protect most wildlife species; mature trees and snags are needed by squirrels and birds; rocks and woodpiles are used by small mammals, snakes and lizards; and water and wetland areas are a must for frogs and turtles. For many creatures, the best year-round protection is thick, thorny and evergreen.

While nesting requirements may be the same as shelter, this isn’t always true. Rabbits, upland songbirds, quail and many other creatures require unmown grass or wildflower areas for nesting and rearing young. Nesting areas should be located adjacent to thick protective cover. To supplement available nesting habitat, put up birdhouses to serve as artificial nesting cavities. Squirrels, wrens, bluebirds and chickadees, to name a few, will readily adapt to nesting in manmade houses.

Water

Water is a wildlife requirement that can be supplied in something as simple as an inverted garbage can lid or as elaborate as a pond. Ponds attract birds and also provide homes for reptiles and amphibians. Cover located close to the edge of a pond and shallow water vegetation increase water’s attraction to wildlife.

In most backyard wildlife areas, birdbaths are the simplest way to provide water. Place them 10-15 feet from cover, and make sure they have gently sloping sides that shouldn’t be more than four inches deep. Birds prefer a rough surface when bathing, so place a few pebbles in the bath’s bottom. Running or dripping water is an added attraction and can be supplied with a fountain or a dripping hose attached to an overhanging branch.

Water supplies require year-round maintenance. A winter freeze robs animals of water, so break ice during cold days. A livestock watering trough heater or aquarium heater placed in a birdbath will prevent this. In addition to its wildlife value, a birdbath or small cement pond can provide a focal point in your landscape. Position it to provide maximum visibility from your porch or window.

Management

Now that the backyard wildlife area is planned, it’s time to begin work. If you’re a gardener with limited experience, ask the county extension agent or local nurseryman for advice. They can provide information about planting, maintenance and, most importantly, what plants grow best in the area. Arkansas has unpredictable weather and plants thriving in south Arkansas may not withstand an Ozark winter.

Soil conditions are also important. Some plants tolerate almost any soil type, while others require more exacting conditions. Easy to use soil testing kits can be purchased at most larger nurseries and garden centers.

As the years go by and your backyard wildlife are matures, you’ll see a change in the number and kinds of wildlife frequenting it. Keep in mind that every bird migrating through Arkansas won’t visit your backyard. A limited number of animals can use a single yard as a home or resting area. Do the best with the available resource, whether it’s a yard of several acres or a window box outside an apartment. Learn to enjoy the wildlife frequenting even the smallest area.

Managing a backyard wildlife area is enjoyable, but for some animals can become nuisances. Problems may arise when squirrels start frequenting your attic, blue jays compete with other birds for food or rabbits feed in the garden. If an undesirable situation arises, you can accept it or control it.

If control is the choice, remove the bothersome animal or change the habitat attracting it. Discourage rabbits by fencing the garden or planting clover in a far corner of the yard to attract them away from your crops. Keep brush far away from the garden because it simply provides the food and cover they prefer. A squirrel in the attic may provide an incentive for repairing the roof. Check for a nest before closing up any entrance. “Wildlife-proof” your home by screening attic openings and chimneys and close openings under buildings where skunks and opossums can reside.

Pets may kill or harass backyard wildlife. Their actions can be controlled by chaining the dog, putting a bell on the cat or fencing the yard.

In a few years, you should see an amazing transformation in the backyard. The lawn should blossom into a garden teeming with birds, butterflies, flowers and fruit. Your children will have an outdoor laboratory to observe the cycle of life. And you’ll have created a natural system enabling animals to care for themselves.

You’ll also benefit. Property values rise from 3-10% with the addition of vegetation and tree cover. Tall trees cut down on noise and dust pollution and decrease heating and cooling bills by providing windbreaks and shade.

Most rewarding of all, however, is the feeling of pride experienced from doing your part for conservation. Natural resources have declined due to negligence and abuse. It often seems there’s little we can do as individuals. Yet by developing your own backyard wildlife habitat area and encouraging others to follow suit, you’ll make a considerable contribution. And this contribution is made in the environment that means the most to you—your own backyard.

The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission’s Backyard Wildlife Program

If your backyard is for the birds and squirrels, butterflies, chipmunks, turtles, and other wild creatures you can be recognized for your contribution to wildlife in the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission's Backyard Wildlife Program.

You can certify your property as a Backyard Wildlife Area by explaining how you have improved habitat for wildlife in your backyard, apartment balcony or even around the office building. An application for certification, as well as information explaining how to provide food, water, shelter, and nesting areas for wildlife is available from the Commission by writing or calling the Urban Wildlife Section, Arkansas Game and Fish Commission, #2 Natural Resources Dr., Little Rock, Arkansas 72205, Phone 501-223-6353.

Backyard wildlife managers will receive a certificate designating their yard as a Backyard Wildlife Area and a “My backyard is for the birds…and all wildlife” bumper sticker.


Posted 07/28/2009 - by JodieElizabeth | Comments: 0 | Post Comment

 
 Working With Wildlife: Bats
 
Source: North Carolina State University

People are becoming increasingly aware of the importance of the bats they once persecuted. Increased pesticide use, the loss of roosting and foraging habitat has resulted in the current decline of many bat species.

The Importance of Bats

Bats serve as important pollinators of many food plants as well as provide useful aids for medical research, particularly for the blind.

Bats are the only major predator of night-flying insects. Bat prey includes lacewings, cockroaches, gnats, and mosquitos as their major food source. A single Big brown bat can eat between 3,000 and 7,000 mosquitos in a night, with large populations of bats consuming thousands of tons of potentially harmful forest and agricultural pests annually.

Permanent wet areas are critical because they supply water and a consistent insect supply.

Flying Mammals

Bats are the only mammals capable of true flight. Their wings are like hands with skin stretched between modified finger bones. They are not blind, but they rely on echolocation instead of their eyes for locating and capturing food at night. Bats are more closely related to primates than the rodents with which they are often compared. They have slow reproductive rates with typically only one offspring cycle. Like all other mammals, female bats nurse their young.

Balancing Bat Habitat

A balance of foraging habitat and roosting habitat is essential. Bats spend over half of their lives in roosts and rely on sheltered, undisturbed natural sites such as caves, crevices in rocks, and tree cavities to meet their needs. In the winter months, insulated roosts are important for hibernating bats, while in late spring and early summer, roosts that can sustain daytime temperatures between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit are important for raising young bats. Bats are somewhat opportunistic in their roost selection and often utilize man-made structures such as attics, abandoned houses, church lofts, and barns where natural roosts are unavailable.

Promoting Bat Habitat

Encourage bats on your property by furnishing foraging and roosting habitats in close proximity. Maintain and manage snags in mature woodlots to increase the availability of natural roosts. Ensure foraging habitat by protecting all permanent water sources such as beaver ponds, swamps, marshes, and streams.

Install properly constructed artificial roosts in areas where natural roosts are scarce or absent. Solitary species such as the Hoary bat will not use bat houses consistently as will the colonial bats, which include the Little brown bat, Big brown bat, and Eastern pipistrelle. Use the following diagram to build effective, maintenance-free bat houses for roosting and raising young.

Construction Tips

Use cedar, cypress, or pressure-treated pine lumber to insure durable, longer-lasting boxes.

Use rough lumber, cut shallow grooves or attach fine plastic or wire mesh to the inner surfaces of the box so bats can easily crawl up and into the house.

Avoid painting or varnishing the inside of the house.

Paint or cover the roof and the top four inches of the sides with tar paper or another dark material to insure the high temperature ranges required by both young and adult bats.

Seal all seams with silicone caulk to waterproof houses and prevent heat and moisture losses.

Installation Tips

Place bat boxes close to rivers, lakes, ponds, marshes, or other permanent water sources where insects are abundant.

Secure boxes to the sides of trees with a ten-penny nail or with crimped wire or a lag bolt that can be loosened as the tree grows. Boxes mounted on fast-growing conifers may have to be remounted every 2 to 3 years.

Tilt houses at a 10 degree angle to help young bats stay in the box.

Place bat houses 10 to 15 feet off the ground. Always seek assistance when using folding or extension ladders.

Locate boxes where they will absorb maximum sunlight. Where possible, place four boxes per tree, one each facing North, South, East, and West, to allow the bats to choose the box they need.

Install bat houses by early April. Don't worry if bats do not begin using them immediately. A recent survey by Bat Conservation International (BCI) showed a 52% occupancy rate for all boxes. It may take up to two years for bats to find and begin using artificial roosts.

Inspect bat houses annually and remove any vegetation that could interfere with entry to the roost or allow predators to enter. Attach predator guards of roofing tin on the mounting post or tree at a height of three feet to protect roosting bats from house cats, raccoons, and snakes.

Posted 07/28/2009 - by JodieElizabeth | Comments: 0 | Post Comment

 
 Supplemental Foods For Wildlife
 
Source: Arkansas Game and Fish Commission

Hummingbird Feeders

Sugar water feeders can supplement the hummingbird's diet of small insects and flower nectar. A glass or plastic vial painted red or a store-bought hummingbird feeder can be filled with a boiled solution made from one part sugar to four parts water. Do not fill your feeder with a honey water solution as this can ferment or produce a fungal disease fatal to the birds. If ants become a problem, the cord from which the feeder hangs should be coated with a non-stick cooking spray or petroleum jelly. Wile most people put hummingbird feeders out in early April and take them down in late September, there is no reason sugar water feeders cannot be left out all year. Hummingbirds know instinctively when to migrate and leaving feeders out will not prevent or postpone their southward journey. In fact, these feeders may mean the difference between survival and starvation for those hummers migrating late or arriving early in the spring when natural food supplies are scarce.

Miracle Meal for Bluebirds and Other Insect Eaters

Bluebirds are primarily insect eaters, although they will also consume fruits. Bluebirds can be lured to feeders by putting out a mixture of one part flour to three parts yellow cornmeal to which lard (not shortening) has been added so the mixture can be formed into firm balls. The best way to offer this "Miracle Meal" is to pack it into 1-1/2 inch holes drilled in a small vertical log which is then hung from a tree limb. The mixture can also be put in a horizontal log with holes drilled in the top for birds who cannot cling. Birds fond of Miracle Meal include titmice, nuthatches, chickadees, and woodpeckers, as well as bluebirds. Peanut butter or peanut hearts can be added to the mixture, although this is not necessary. Don't add regular bird seed as these birds do not care for it.

Miracle Meal can be fed to birds year-round except during extremely hot weather. In spring and summer, adult birds will feed it to their nestlings. You should cut down on the amount of lard during hot weather as it will melt in the heat. If you find the mixture becomes rancid, discontinue feeding it to the birds until the weather cools down.

Feeding Raccoons and Other Mammals

While the antics of raccoons are delightful to watch, feeding from your back porch can cause problems. Raccoons and their droppings carry diseases transmissible to man and his pets. Encouraging raccoons, opossums and other mammals to come close to houses leads to overturned garbage cans and disturbed gardens, not only for you, but for your neighbors as well.

Backyard wild-lifers who live in black bear country should enjoy these beautiful animals from afar and not entice them into yards by offering them food. Black bears that learn to associate food with man become a serious problem because they harass people and raid garbage cans and bee hives.

The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission suggests you do not feed raccoons, opossums or bears in your backyard.

Posted 07/28/2009 - by JodieElizabeth | Comments: 0 | Post Comment

 
 Artificial Squirrel Nests
 
Source: Arkansas Game and Fish Commission

Lumber - One-inch rough sawed cypress or treated pine is used to make the following sections:

Front and Back - Seven inches wide; bottom cut square; top angled; 19-3/4 inches long on one side and 18-1/2 inches long on the other; 2-1/2 inch circular entrance cut in front with drill saw, 14-1/2 inches from the bottom.

Side Near Tree - 9-1/4 inches x 19-3/4 inches.

Side Away from Tree - 9-1/4 inches x 18-1/2 inches.

Roof - 10 inches x 12 inches. Cleats should be just under 7 inches long. They should be located on the roof board so they will fit fairly snug inside the 7-inch x 7-inch box top, thereby preventing shifting of the roof. The roof should overhang sides and back about 3/8 inch and should overhang front and back about 1-3/8 inches.

Batten - 2 inches x 21-1/2 inches. Cut 1/4 inch wide slot, one inch long in center of one end.

Sheet Steel (for hanger) - 2 inches x 8 inches, 20 ga. galvanized. Drill "keyhole" large enough to fit over 40-penny nail head, near one end; drill five holes to fit shaft of 6-penny nails, near other end.

Hardware Cloth (for floor) - 8-inch x 8-inch square of 1/2 inch-mesh galvanized --after welding, 14 ga. iron wire is preferred. Bend each side, 1/2 inch from margin, at right angles, to form a 7 inches x 7 inches x 1/2 inch "pan."

Wire ( for steadying box when mounted in tree) - No. 10 solid, polyethylene-covered THW conductor, or similar solid core, flexible plastic-covered wire.

Nails - Eight-penny galvanized box: 12 for box construction and two to pin roof to box. Six-penny common galvanized: five to attach batten to box. Forty-penny common galvanized: Two to suspend completed box from tree.

Staples - Eight small galvanize, to attach hardware cloth cotton. Install floor after sides, front, and back have been assembled. Turn hardware cloth "pan" so edges point downward. Insert into bottom of box until wire is even with box edge. Staple in place. Fasten batten to side of box by driving six-penny galvanized nails through batten and well into, but not through side of box. After box has been assembled and roof set in place, drill one hole each through the top center of the box sides (or front and back) and through roof cleats. Nails can then be inserted to secure roof. Attach hanger to bottom by driving six-penny galvanized box nails through hanger and bottom. Clinch projecting ends into batten. Leave at least 2-inch clearance between tree and heads of forty-penny suspension nails to allow for tree growth. Place 3-inch layer of dry leaves on wire floor. Pick location for box on trunk of tree high enough to discourage vandalism or possible shot damage. Do not rest box on limb, as this will eventually damage tree and box. Use single strand of plastic-covered wire to make box mount sturdy. Pull wire taut around box and tree trunk and twist ends together. Wire will untwist as tree grows. The entrance hole on squirrel boxes should be circular, 2-1/2 inches in diameter for gray squirrels and 3 inches for fox squirrels.

Posted 07/28/2009 - by JodieElizabeth | Comments: 0 | Post Comment

 
 Don't Forget Water!
 
Source: Arkansas Game and Fish Commission

A birdbath, whether it serves as a temporary or permanent substitute for a garden pool, can be enhanced by landscaping around it. You can add sound and motion to the watering spot, increasing its attraction to birds, by attaching a dripping hose along an overhanging branch.

An aquarium heater in the birdbath or a warming light bulb in the pedestal requires the use of a durable, weatherproof electrical extension cord.

A forked stick in a submerged, sand-filled coffee can provides a cat-proof drinking perch for birds.

A trio of sunken barrels is an easy, inexpensive way to provide water in a small garden. Each lotus plant or hardy lily plant needs three gallons of soil containing some clay (no sand, peat moss, or rotted wood) and enriched with lily fertilizer - one-half pound for a lily, one pound for a lotus. Put soil mixture in bottom of barrel, saturate with water, lay plant root in two inches of soil at a slant, covering all but the growing plant. Add an inch of sand; add water until the plant leaves float comfortably.

A Pool for Any Yard

This little pool can be lined with plastic sheeting if soil is too porous to hold water. Locating it on a slope utilizes natural drainage which may be supplemented with a hose as needed. Properly fertilized, aquatic plants will grow equally well in the clay soil bottom or in submerged pots. Fish will eat mosquitoes but don't overstock. Allow one inch of goldfish (not counting tail) for every 20 square inches of water surface.



Posted 07/28/2009 - by JodieElizabeth | Comments: 0 | Post Comment




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